CABLES

how to use adjustable strap on double end bag?

I just bought a title 7″ double end bag which came with the adjustable strap. I set everything up but cant get the tension right. Is the adjustable strap supposed to be on the bottom or the top, and how would I use it? My ceiling height is 7’3” and the bungee cables are 2’3”
kits for what? I don’t need to buy anything, if you would clearly read my question you would see I have everything needed. I am asking how to adjust the height with the adjustable strap included. Simple as that

If the adjustable strap came pre-attached to the bag loops, just gauge its orientation by the orientation of the writing/logo on the bag itself.

In my former experience setting up and using various double-end bags, I learned to “ditch” the traditional one-piece, single strand round rubber shock cords. Instead, I used the vinyl-covered, rubber-braided core versions which can be found at any Wal-Mart or home center.

Next, as you can find at any home center, get those “snap hook” things. The double-end bags I had through the years didn’t come with swivels, which I felt was a necessary addition. The “snap hooks” should have a eyelet-type ring. From the round rubber-shock cords, remove the existing hook and place the cord through the “snap hooks” eyelet. Then use a strong wire to secure the chord and pinch it closed. You’ll need a “snap hook” for both the bottom and top of the bag. You can place the “snap hooks” away form the bag — along the chord — if you don’t want the “snap hooks” in your striking range. Especially if you have the bag set up all the time and don’t have to set up and take it done between workouts..

Then determine how much play you want in the bag. Join as many of the round shock cords as needed. Then simply tie knots in the shock cord to shorten it. That worked best for me. You”ll be surprised how superior the rounded cords perform over the traditional “bungee-type” one-piece, flat versions that are more popular. Those are the ones that usually come with such bags, at least with the ones I had (Ringside). The round ones have a lot more bounce to them, and again I found them much better suited to use on my double-end bags.

Also, the swivels go a long way in improving the bags’ action. A long way. The double-end bag won’t get twisted up, and it also saves shock which slowly damages the bag itself.

You also don’t have to use large sand-filled donuts, if you want to be able to get closer to the bag itself. Of course, the best bottom-securing method is an eye bolt in the flooring, but that’s not always practical. I had success simply using traditional free weights. It depends on how much weight you need. I simply made a wooden base, then placed an eye bolt through the center hole of free weights I placed on top of the base. Then run a bolt at the eye bolt under the base. You’ll just have to drill a recess hole at the base bottom. It worked like a charm, and was easier to move in and out of way, compared to sand-filled donuts.

The amount of “travel” you want in the double-end bag depends on what you’re looking for. The longer the chord from both ceiling and floor will produce a longer path of travel, but it won’t react as quick. Shorter cords produce faster movement, yes, but a shorter field of travel. If possible, as I once did, have multiple double-end bags, with each having differing characteristics.

I offer this from my own experience. I always thought I was better at designing setups than I ever was using them.
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Added 07/26/2010:

OK. I’ve not used one with an adjustable strap. All I related is that is you really want the tension to be “just right,” you should customize and create your own setup. That’s all. I had three different double-bag setups, and I adopted them to what I wanted to do, and not rely on what was provided. That’s all. But using different shock cords and swivels isn’t expensive at all. But it makes all the difference in getting the best results from double-end bags.

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